Why do Black women develop dark marks after shaving?

Answered by Eva Taub

I hear this question almost every week, and the first thing I tell women is this:

Shaving isn’t usually the problem. Irritation is.

Many Black women are told to stop shaving because they think the razor is causing the dark marks. In reality, it’s usually what happens after the shave that creates the discoloration.

Melanin-rich skin responds differently to irritation than lighter skin. When a hair becomes ingrown, a razor bump develops, or the skin is repeatedly irritated by a dull blade or poor shaving technique, your body responds by producing extra pigment as it heals. That process is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH. It’s a normal healing response — but in melanin-rich skin, it’s much more noticeable and often lasts much longer.

That’s why two women can shave exactly the same way and have completely different results. One develops a temporary razor bump. The other develops a dark mark that remains for months. The difference isn’t the razor. It’s how their skin heals.

I also want to clear up another misconception. Shaving done correctly doesn’t cause dark marks. I actually teach many of my clients how to shave properly between treatments, because poor technique creates far more problems than careful shaving ever does. I recommend a fresh disposable razor, plenty of lubrication — I prefer hair conditioner instead of traditional shaving cream — and as little irritation to the skin as possible.

Once the dark marks are already there, the focus changes from prevention to treatment. After more than forty years working with melanin-rich skin, I’ve found that gentle approaches usually produce the best long-term results. That’s one reason I use mandelic acid. It gradually encourages healthy skin turnover without the irritation that can trigger even more pigment production.

Your skin isn’t overreacting. It’s protecting itself. The goal is to remove the irritation that’s causing the pigment in the first place — not simply to chase the dark marks after they appear.